Limited Access Highways (Freeways)

Limited Access Highways

Safe riding on limited access highways depends on the careful application of the skills and methods of riding that we have discussed in previous lessons, together with an awareness of the extra hazards that arise from the speed and volume of the traffic. You do not need to develop special techniques but you do have to apply the techniques you have learned more rigorously.

Before you join or merge

You need to prepare adequately before you join or merge a limited access highway. There are special conditions you should consider:

• the speed and volume of traffic
• the dangers of stopping on the shoulder
• the level of attention required

High speeds mean that hazardous situations develop quickly and that you travel further before you can react. Minimum stopping distances are greatly extended and collisions often cause death, serious injury and severe damage. As the volume of traffic increases, the demands on your attention and decision-making also increase. With more vehicles there are more hazards and the opportunities for maneuvers are more restricted.

You need to maintain a high level of concentration. Fatigue can be a real problem and you should always plan adequate rest breaks. The limited opportunities for stopping require riders to be in good health and their bikes in good condition. The risk of collision makes stopping on the shoulder extremely hazardous for the rider and for other road users.

We will look at the safety implications of these special features of limited access highways for:

• the rider
• the motorcycle
• traffic, road and surface conditions

The Rider

It takes time to develop skills in accurately assessing high speeds and stopping distances at these speeds. Always ride well within your own competence and aim to steadily develop your experience so that you are fully comfortable within our existing speed range before moving on to higher speeds.

Fatigue

Fatigue is the cause of a disproportionate number of crashes on limited access highways. As you tire, your ability to take in and process information is reduced and your ability to react to the information you have received takes longer. Fatigue is most likely in conditions which are relatively unchanging. If you get wet or cold your are at increased risk of fatigue.

The Motorcycle

Before you start a journey run through a P petrol O oil W water E electrics R rubber (tires) check.

Traffic, road and surface conditions

Consider the likely traffic volume and the possibility of roadwork and other delays. These affect how long your journey will take and allowances should be made for them so that you are not rushing to meet deadlines. Where weather conditions are deteriorating you should consider very carefully whether to make your journey at all. Your safety depends on adapting your riding to the prevailing road and weather conditions – this is crucial on limited access highways.

European In Depth Study Of Motorcycle Crashes

The first complete European in-depth study of motorcycle accidents.

Maids In Depth Report

Overtaking – Special Hazards

Road layout

Look for nearside hazards (road edge) like:

• pathways
• tracks
• entrances
• gates out of which vehicles or other hazards could emerge, and cause the vehicle you intend to overtake suddenly to veer to the offside.

On the offside, look carefully for:

•  junctions, especially where they could conceal emerging vehicles or other hazards
• Bends
• hill crests
• hump-back bridges and any other aspect of road layout which could obscure your view must be taken into account.

Allow for the possibility that there are fast-moving vehicles approaching you on the sections of road you cannot see.

Road surface

The condition of the road surface should always be taken into account before you overtake. There may be ruts or holes which could throw a bike off course, deposits of diesel or other debris, which could require a change in course, or surface water which could cause a curtain of spray at a critical movement.

Overtaking in a stream of vehicles

Overtaking in a stream of vehicles is more difficult than overtaking an isolated vehicle because many more factors need to be considered. You have to take into account the possible actions of more drivers both in front and behind. There is always the possibility that drivers in front are not aware of your presence or intention to overtake and that drivers behind might attempt to overtake you.

Before overtaking, you should identify a clear gap between the vehicles in front which you can enter safely. Be aware the gap may close up before you arrive, so choose gaps that are large enough to allow for this. Do not overtake if you will have to force your bike into a gap.

When overtaking in a stream of vehicles, consider positioning your bike on the offside section of the road. This can improve your viewpoint because it is not obstructed by the vehicles in front, but this depends on the road layout. You can gain by holding this position if you can see that the road ahead is clear and if you can identify a clear return gap and have sufficient time in which to reach it. When you reach the first return gap you may not need to enter it. If it is safe, hold the offside position to assess the possibility for further overtaking. Regard each vehicle as a separate hazard.

Filtering

Because filtering through stopped traffic is extremely hazardous and increasing your vulnerability while filtering, I don’t recommend it at all. But if you decide to filter:

• use extreme care
• keep your speed low – you need to be able to stop suddenly if circumstances change
• always identify a place where you can rejoin the traffic flow before you move out
• make yourself visible
• be ready to brake and/or use the horn
• use the opportunity to make progress but be courteous and avoid conflict with other road users

Overtaking on Two-lane roads

Overtaking on a two-lane roads is perhaps the most hazardous form of overtaking. While you are overtaking, your bike is in the path of any oncoming vehicles so greater care must be taken before deciding on the maneuver.

Develop the ability to judge the speed and distance of oncoming vehicles accurately. You need to be able to assess whether you can reach the return gap before they do. Remember you always have the option of not overtaking. Judging the speed of an oncoming vehicle is extremely difficult, especially on long straight roads. The size and type of the approaching vehicle may give you an indication of its possible speed.

Plan and prepare your overtaking carefully. As well as looking for vehicles, train yourself to look specifically for other motorcyclists, cyclists and pedestrians before you overtake. If you do not expect to see something, you may not see it when it is there – an oncoming pedestrian or cyclist ca be easily overlooked.

2009 HD Police Electra Glide

Brand-spanking NEW….just picked it up yesterday. 2009 Electra-glide. Boy does the 103 make a difference…wow. Thanks Schoch Harley-Davidson, Stroudsburg PA.

New 2009 Police Electra Glide (Hudson black/white)

Ski-Doo Modular 2 Helmet

Well, my face just about fell off the other morning while riding to a 911 hang up call. I mean it hurt. Aware of frostbite issues, I prayed I can make it there without any skin damage. 

It was the first call of the morning and the temperature was suppose to get up to the mid to upper 30’s. However, it was in the teens in the early morning, and my 50 mph road speed contributed to lower temperatures through wind chill. 

Our motor unit uses the Shoei (black/white) half helmet, while traditional, not practical in the winter. I try to keep my face covered but no amount of covering will sustain long periods of wind in your face with a half helmet; not to mention the added vision problems.

I talked it over with our Chief and requested to purchase a full face helmet. Because it is necessary for people to see our faces during interaction we were considering the modular helmet.

The Chief, being in avid snowmobiler, suggested Ski-Doo helmets. I winced at the remark! What?! Ski-Doo, what’s a Skid-Doo?

He explained how he uses this type of helmet when snowmobiling in sometimes extreme cold. He said while wind is a factor, helmet fog is inevitable at extreme cold and helmets will fog up. The helmet he uses comes with a mask which deflects breathing and channels it through vents.

I thought of all the years I battled fogging during the winter. Recently, I was breaking-in a new V-Rod for one of the guys at work. It is difficult to ride with no wind deflection in the warm climate, let alone cold.

I remember struggling to keep my glasses and visor from fogging. I found myself holding my breath a lot at stops or slower speeds. The temperatures were below freezing.

He is right about the fogging. There is no good way around it for long term, very cold conditions.  Since “breathe fog” comes from your nose and mouth, not your helmet, deflection is the key.

So I headed over to the Ski-Doo dealership to check out some helmets and get a price.

I was surprised at the quality of the helmets for snowmobiling. A whole new world opened up for me. I asked myself, why couldn’t these helmets be used for motorcycling? Honestly, I never considered this before. The thought never occurred to me.

The helmets are very well made and have some nice, practical features. Sunglasses are an issue for me and I have worn “fit-overs” but not very good quality and they are cumbersome. I am looking forward to the adjustable sun-shield.

The Modular 2 helmet boasts some features like:

Built-in Clear Vision Technology with optically-correct dual lens visor for increased peripheral vision and integrated sun-shield for reduced glare

Adjustable sunshield lowers or raises at the touch of a button

Front push-button release integrated into jaw section facilitates manipulation when wearing gloves

BREATH EVAC fog-resistant mask system and increased vent diameter control breathing airflow

Quick-release chin strap

Spacious design allows room for eyeglasses

D.O.T. approved

Shell: Polycarbonate Composite

The Chief approved the purchase, so we ordered it for $292.00 bucks. I don’t know how many Police Department are using snowmobile helmets, probably none. So after some usage, I’ll write a review on the helmet….maybe start a trend?

Overtaking With Other Hazards

Overtaking when other hazards require you to take up a following position

This occurs when the presence of approaching vehicles, obscured views or some other hazard requires you to follow the vehicle(s) ahead before you can overtake safely.

Overtaking in this situation requires a three-stage approach:

• Stage 1 – The following position
• Stage 2 – The overtaking position
• Stage 3 – Overtaking

Stage 1 – The following position

Where you are gaining on the vehicle in front and it is not possible to overtake immediately, use the system of motorcycle control to reduce your speed to that of the vehicle in front to follow at a safe distance.

Your main task in the following position is to observe and assess the road and traffic conditions for an opportunity to overtake safely. You need to ask yourself:

• What is the speed of the vehicle(s) to be overtaken?
• Are the drivers in front aware of your presence?
• Are the drivers ahead likely to overtake?
• Is there a possibility of as yet unseen vehicles approaching at high speed?
• What will be the likely response of the driver of the vehicle in front?
• Does the road layout present a hazard?
• Have you taken into account the relative speed and performance of your own bike?
• What is happening behind: are any of the drivers behind likely to overtake you?
• What is the distance needed to overtake and regain a gap safely?
• What is the relative speed of approaching vehicles in view?

Your safety depend on making the correct interpretation of what you see.

Humor – A Man and His Harley

A man riding his Harley was riding along a California beach when
suddenly the sky clouded above his head and, in a booming voice, the
Lord said, ‘Because you have tried to be faithful to me in all ways, I
will grant you one wish.’

The biker pulled over and said, ‘Build a bridge to Hawaii so I can ride
over anytime I want.’

The Lord said, ‘Your request is materialistic, think of the enormous
challenges for that kind of undertaking; the supports required reaching
the bottom of the Pacific and the concrete and steel it would take! It
will nearly exhaust several natural resources. I can do it, but it is
hard for me to justify your desire for worldly things. Take a little
more time and think of something that could possibly help mankind.’

The biker thought about it for a long time.

Finally, he said, ‘Lord, I wish that I and all men could understand
women; I want to know how she feels inside, what she’s thinking when she
gives me the silent treatment, why she cries, what she means when she
says nothing’s wrong, why she snaps and complains when I try to help,
and how I can make a woman truly happy.’

The Lord replied, ‘You want two lanes or four on that bridge?

Total Stopping Distance

When we talk about total stopping distances we are referring to braking distance and reaction distance combined.

Braking distance is the distance through which brakes are applied to slow a vehicle; the shortest distance in which a particular vehicle can be stopped by braking from a specified speed on a particular surface.

Reaction distance is the distance moved or traveled by a vehicle during reaction time.

Reaction time  is the time required from perception to start of vehicle control for tactical operation. In our previous post we discussed the four phases involved in perception reaction distance.

Most people can understand the faster you go the more distance they need to stop. However, what people find surprising is the amount of distance needed.

Rule: If you double your speed you quadruple your stopping distance.

Okay, it is day time, you are traveling at 40 mph, you are alert and are not impaired by alcohol, drugs or prescription medication, you are on a level, well traveled asphalt paved road, your vehicle brakes are working properly; a car pulls out in front of you from a hidden driveway, how much distance do you need to stop before collision?

TIP: To estimate your speed from mph to fps (feet per second) divide by 2 then add to your original speed:

ie 40 / 2 = 20; 20 + 40 = 60 (feet per second)

The actual result can be calculated by multiplying the speed in mph by the conversion of 1.466:

ie 40 x 1.466 = 58.64 feet per second

The estimate method is much more practical to quickly give yourself an idea of distance as it relates to your speed when you are driving.

To answer the question, we must calculate braking distance and reaction distance then combine them.

Step 1. Calculate reaction distance: 58.64 fps x 1.6 seconds = 93.82 feet [reaction distance]

Note: 1.6 seconds being the average perception reaction time for an unimpaired driver during daylight conditions for an unanticipated events.

Step 2. Calculate braking distance: speed squared / 30(f) [f is a drag factor for the roadway]

40 x 40 = 1600

30 x .75 = 22.5

1600/22.5 = 71.11 feet

Now add 93.82 with 71.11 = total stopping distance is 164.93 feet [about 11 car lengths]

This is the distance you need to successfully avoid hitting the vehicle.

Also, in rural areas, utility poles generally are about 100 feet apart (at least in PA anyway).

Next lesson we will see how a few miles per hour can make the difference between collision or no collision.

Phases of Perception – Response Time

Detection (Phase 1)

This phase begins when some object of concern (hazard) enter the driver’s field of view. It ends when the driver develops a conscious awareness that something is present. That object may be in the driver’s field of view for a period of time before it is detected. Once detected, the eyes will move to bring the object into focus.

Identification (Phase 2)

During this phase, information must be acquired about the hazard so that in the next phase the driver will be able to reach a decision as to what action to take. Identification does not need to be complete in detail. If the object is moving, estimates of speed and trajectory may be required. This phase is devidide into two groups:

1. Object is discernable – The mind understands what the eye has seen
2. Object is very discernable – The mind clearly understands the object and successfully identifies it for what it is

Decision (Phase 3)

The driver at this point must decide what action to take. Normally, the action decided upon is a reduction of speed or change in direction.

Response (Phase 4)

During this phase, commands are sent from the brain to the appropriate muscle groups to carry out the required actions.

The perception-reaction time typically ends when the driver begins an evasive action.

Research indicates that in a straightforward situation, perception-response time on average is 1.6 seconds. While it is possible to attain quicker times (.75 seconds or below) these instances are few. The reasonable range there would be between .75 and 1.6 seconds. 

It has been my personal experience investigating over 500 collisions, that 1.6 seconds is accurate and applies to most situations.

It is critical to undestand that perception/reaction requires cognitive activity which takes time. We will see in future lessons that this reaction time translates into reaction distance which is one factor of the total stopping distance considerations. The other factor being braking distance.

Overtaking, Turning and Stopping behind other Vehicles

Overtaking position

When you have identified an opportunity to overtake, you should move into the overtaking position. This is closer to the vehicle in front than the following position and you should only use it in readiness for overtaking. If an observed or anticipated hazard develops consider moving back to the following position.

As you move closer to the vehicle in front the driver is likely to realize that you want to pass. You must be careful not to intimidate the driver or to appear aggressive by following too closely. Such misunderstandings are dangerous and counterproductive. They can cause the other driver to speed up, making it more difficult to pass, or to brake unexpectedly at a point where your safety margin is reduced.

Position for turning

Your position for turning depends on the other traffic, your safety, road surface conditions, road layout, the position of any obstacles and the effect of these obstacles on traffic behavior.

Generally, the best position to approach the intersection where you are turning is on the nearside (right) for a right and toward the center-line for a left.

If you intend to turn right and the corner has a sharp angle, or is obscured, approach the corner from further out than you normally would, avoid “swan necking” (approaching close to the right for a right turn and then swinging out to the left before turning right).

Position for stopping behind other vehicles

When you stop behind a line of vehicles and there is no one following, consider stopping well short of the vehicle in front and watch for traffic coming up behind. If an approaching vehicle appears to have left braking too late, move forward to allow it extra space to stop in. You should consider stopping in the bend so that the drivers of following vehicles can see you as they approach the bend.

Pa Motorcycle Operator Manual

PA Motorcycle Operator Manual

PREFACE

Operating a motorcycle safely in traffic requires special skills and knowledge. This handbook will provide you with the information necessary to enable you to obtain a motorcycle license and to help you learn those special operating skills.

The purpose of this manual is to enable the reader to avoid crashes while safely operating a motorcycle. By reading this manual, you will learn strategies for collision avoidance. You will learn how you can improve your riding strategy by using a system known as SEE (search, evaluate, execute). You will learn what you can do to be seen by other motorists. In collisions with motorcyclists, drivers often say they never saw the motorcycle. 

When you ride a motorcycle, you should wear proper protective clothing and headgear, ride within your limits, obey the law, and “share the road” with other highway users. Riding a motorcycle can be safe and fun when you act as a responsible rider.

The Pennsylvania Motorcycle Safety Program will teach you the basic skills necessary to operate a motorcycle. Take advantage of this learning opportunity, read the Motorcycle Operator Manual, and become an informed motorcyclist.

Remember that your life, and the lives of others, will depend on what you do while operating a motorcycle.

Keep this manual for future reference. There may be times when you will want to check on the recommended ways to handle a situation which you have encountered.

Motorcycle Safety Program

PENNDOT

Following Position

In a stream of traffic always keep a safe distance behind the vehicle in front.

Always try to maintain a view of the road beyond the vehicle you are following. These are some of the advantages of keeping your distance from the vehicle in front:

• good view and can increase it along both sides by small changes of position
• you can stop safely if the driver in front brakes firmly without warning
• extend your braking distance to give the driver behind more time to react
• less spray from the vehicle in front in wet weather
• you can see when it is safe to move up into the overtaking position

You should generally position your bike to the rear offside of the vehicle you are following. From this position you are:

• visible through the inside and offside door mirrors of the driver front
• able to move into an overtaking position by reducing the following distance alone (without needing to change position as well)
• able to escape to either side should an emergency arise

If you need to take a position further to the center, increase your following distance to compensate for the loss of the offside escape route.

Calculating Motorcycle Stopping Distance

While looking over my dashboard on wordpress, I found several search requests  for how to calculate motorcycle stopping distances.

Since one of my rules for this blog is not to get technical, I’ll avoid explaining the formula. Just enter the input values and view results. This is an excel spreadsheet download. You can download OPEN OFFICE free online and it will open the excel spreadsheet.

LINK:  Calculator

Keep in mind this calculator does not factor in perception reaction time! 

To add reaction distance:

Step 1. Convert MPH to FPS (1.466 is the conversion value)

IE 40 mph x 1.466 = 58.64 FPS

Step 2. Multiply 58.64 FPS with the desired time value (1.6 seconds is the average perception/reaction time)

58.64 x 1.6 = 93.82 Feet

Step 3. Add 93.82 Feet to the result (shortest possible non skid stop). Using a .7 coefficient of friction (dry well traveled road) the result was 76.19 feet.

76.19 + 93.82 = 170 feet (This is your TOTAL STOPPING DISTANCE)

Results are also displayed in metric.

Hope this helps.

‘A’ Pillar Warning for Cars

The ‘A’ pillar of your windshield continues to be an underestimated source of blind spot. The problem is enhanced with narrow objects such as motorcycles and pedestrians.

As a matter of fact, most crashes I have investigated involving pedestrians, where the vehicle is at fault, is the left turning vehicle into the pedestrian crossing alongside the vehicle.

What further enhances this problem is:

• hurrying
• turning improperly
• moving while looking at opposing traffic
• distractions inside and out of the vehicle
• that confounded cell phone

Drivers will say they did not see the pedestrian. Of course you did not see them. If you saw them and hit them anyway it would not be an accident (it would be criminal). The problem lies in why did you not see them?

The left turning vehicle is also a large problem in motorcycle collisions for similar reasons.

A Pillar view obstruction while turning left

You must be aware of the A pillar blind spot and compensate for it just as you would when changing lanes. You have to physically turn your head to look through a blind spot, not relying on the side view mirrors.

Similarly, you have to make an effort to look around the A pillar view obstruction.

The time to learn about this is now, not when a pedestrian is laying on the pavement.

Hope this helps.

Positioning on the Approach to Hazards

Ay you approach a hazard you need to be aware of the condition of the road surface up to and through the hazard and to select a course that will give adequate tire grip. When planning your course be alert to risks that arise from the sides of the road. Select a course that reduces your vulnerability and increases your vision and conspicuity.

Roadside Hazards

Common road side hazards:

 

• pedestrians stepping off curbs
• parked vehicles and their occupants
• cyclists
• concealed driveways, intersections, alleys, etc.
• animals

 

When you ride along a row of parked vehicles get into the habit of askin yourself, “could I stop in time if a child ran out?”

Keep as far from rows of parked vehicles as circumstances allow. If traffic or road conditions prevent you from moving out, reduce speed.

Improving the View Into Right Side Road Intersections

Position yourself so that you can see as much of the road ahead as possible and so that other road users can see you. You can improve our view into curbside roads by positioning your bike towards the crown of the road. This also makes you more visible to vehicles pulling out from curbside intersections, driveways, etc.

Adopt a position that minimizes the overall danger from both sides of the road. Carry out rear observation before you alter position either way.

Positioning for Advantage

The narrowness of the bike and rider give you great flexibility in the choice of position on you own side of the road within your lane. Choose a position to maximize safety. There are three positions to consider:

1. Left position (right of center-line)
2. Center position
3. Right position

Left Position

Benefits:

• it gives early views on the approach to right-hand curves
• it provides increased safety margins away from curb or roadside hazards
• it is generally the best position for left turns

Anticipate the possibility of large oncoming vehicles straddling the center-line on curves and be prepared to move right.

Center Position

This is midway between the left and right positions. Benefits include:

• it gives the rider good margins of safety on both sides
• it allows the rider to chang position to either side

In wet weather, avoid the center position near intersections and on the final approach to curves because oil and diesel tend to accumulate in it.

Right Position (near edge or curb)

Benefits:

• it gives early views through left-hand curves
• it allows curbside views past trucks and other large vehicles
• it is generally the best position for right-hand turns when there are no other hazards

Check that the road edge surface is sound and free of drains, debris, dust and grit before using it.

Any of these position should be sacrificed for safety.

When you are riding through a series of curves in wet weather follow the dry line of previous vehicles providing it does not take you too far off course. Reduce speed to compensate for deviating from your ideal line.