Close Call With Ape Hangers

While on patrol today I saw a bike on the shoulder that looked like this:

The rider (Kevin) and his wife (Kim) were traveling on a two lane limited access highway when the handle bars started moving back and forth. Kevin, quickly realizing a problem, pulled off the road onto the shoulder and then suddenly the handle bars snapped.

Two half inch bolts were no match for this weighty, one and half inch thick ape hanger.

Below, Kevin kindly holds up the ape hanger to show what they should look like, thanks Kevin.

Kevin holding up the ape hangers

Kevin said he wanted to test ride his friend’s bike to see if he liked the ape hangers for hiw own bike.

I suggested his friend follow up with the outfit that sold him these bad boys and that he get his friend to buy him and his wife dinner.

If it weren’t for Kevin’s quick reaction this situation could have been alot worse. Good job Kevin.

Thanks to Kevin and Kim for allowing me to share this with you.

Video – 2 Bike Crash at Intersection

This video pretty much speaks for itself.

It never hurts to look at cross traffic even if you have the green light.

Quick accelerations or dart-outs when a light turns green puts you at a disadvantage because your robbing yourself of time (remember time = distance too); quick accelerations doing a wheelie, well that is another subject.

Key to accident avoidance is TIME TO REACT; seek to make all of your maneuvers gradually and smoothly; buying time wherever possible.

Honda Gold Wing Official Airbag Demo

I have mixed feelings about this but applaud all efforts to minimize injury.

Video – Causes of Crashes

Crash Investigator talks about 4 top causes of crashes in his venue.  Basic stuff but worth a look.

Kamikaze Riders in Kiev

Hello from Ukraine,

We have embarked on a mission to adopt three children with Down syndrome from Vorzel, Ukraine.

On our way to the orphanage, our driver, not knowing what I did for a living, pointed to a speeding motorcyclist and said…”kamikaze”. In the best English he could muster, he explained many riders start their journey but never can be sure they will reach their destination.

After only a few days of observing traffic conditions here in Kiev, I can understand why. It seems anything goes. If you are stuck in bumper to bumper you can make your own lane, literally. Drivers here give filtering a new definition. I have seen cars drive the wrong way on the opposing lanes shoulder, right down the middle of the road, and run their lanes shoulder.

Our driver, attempting to overtake a long line of stopped traffic, turned into the opposing lane and rode that for a while right into a right-hand bend where there was a scooter approaching. The rider was surprised but adjusted. Good thing he was on the nearside (road edge) which gave him a little time to react.

I am not feeling that Highway Safety is top on the priority list here in the Ukraine.

I have seen of few big bikes but most are smaller, the majority are scooters. Most riders seem to favor the nearside position.

On my next post I’ll try to get some pics. I haven’t gotten fast enough with my pocket camera yet.

Reminder – Ride To Work Day June 15

Grading Risk

The following series of scenarios practically demonstrates the riders grading of risk according to the existing conditions, please note every scenario requires some action to be taken by the rider except for scenario 5. Taking no action in scenarios 1 through 4 will limit your reaction time.

 

Scenario 1: A car pulls out at an intersection, turning left and encroaches your path.

ACTION: Here the risk is a positive danger requiring drastic action to avoid a collision. BRAKE HARD or swerve but don’t do both at the same time.

Scenario 2: A car is stopped at the intersection angled to turn left. The driver has not looked in your direction. The brake light go off and the car begins to move.

ACTION: The situation contains some serious risk. Alter your position if you have not already done so and lose speed sharply. Use a long horn sound.

Scenario 3: A car is on its final approach to the intersection, slowing as if to stop, but you don’t have eye contact with the driver.

ACTION: The driver of the car is not aware of your presence. The risk is real. The driver may pull out. Alter your course to maximize the distance between you and the other car and alter your speed. Consider a short horn sound.

Scenario 4: A car comes into view approaching the intersection from the left.

ACTION: The presence of the car represent a slight risk. Consider altering your position and speed.

Scenario 5: The intersection ahead is free of traffic.

ACTION: Every intersection poses a risk. This intersection is clear and vision is good. No action is required other than to keep make visual scans until you pass the intersection. If the intersection present a poor visibility or a view obstruction, consider altering your position and speed.

Charity Ride for Breast Cancer June 7

Fifth annual “Ride for the Boobies”

Members of our Motor Unit (including yours truly) will be providing a police escort for this 95 mile ride on Sunday, June 7, 2009.

We will be departing from Dutch’s Custom Cycle , Swiftwater PA, at 11:00 a.m.

For Tickets and Information Contact:

DIANE EDWARDS

570-595-3471

richarde@chilitech.net

Hope to see you there!!

 

Getting ready to head out from Dutch’s

For pics click link:  http://www.unc.edu/~ruvane/09_BreastCancer/2009Ride.html

Safe Stopping Time

Proposition:  It is easier to calculate your ability to stop within the assured clear distance ahead by relating your stopping time (seconds) to your travel speed.

When considering safe stopping distances, think seconds not feet.

Time and distance are interrelated. In the collision field, we always relate distance to feet and time to seconds. A basic rule to safe driving is: Always drive at a speed that allows you to stop on your side of the road within the distance you can see to be clear.

Anytime we discuss distance, time is always associated. Even if you have memorized stopping distance for equivalent speeds, how good are you at judging distance? How good are you at judging distance while moving at 20, 30 or 60 mph?

A more practical method is to relate your stopping ability in time (seconds). 

If you are traveling at 50 mph hour, you need at least 3 seconds of braking time to stop within the clear distance ahead (see table below for additional times at different speeds).

There are many reference points along the roadway for a rider to calculate time in seconds, especially when following another vehicle.

• Road lines (markings)
• Road patches
• Cracks
• Tar strips
• Shadows
• Pot holes
• Man hole covers
• Pavement changes

Even on cloudy days, vehicles project shadows that traverse roadway points to calculate time.

We recommend fix points on the road surface to count by and NOT landmarks like signs, poles, etc. Landmarks require too much guess work because of the angles involved.

Stopping Time

We  propose it is much easier for the rider to relate stopping in time (seconds) as opposed to distance.

The following speed ranges show the braking time to stop on normal, dry, level roads:

• 20 mph and 30 mph = 1.2 secs to 1.8 secs
• 35 mph to 45 mph = 2.1 secs to 2.7 secs
• 50 mph to 60 mph = 3.0 secs to 3.6 secs

Following Time (”Only a fool breaks the 2-second rule”???)

Is 2 seconds enough time?

The 2-second rule is meant as a safety buffer for time to respond. If an event is unanticipated, 1.6 seconds will be consumed in your reaction alone, how much more time will you need to complete an avoidance maneuver? Is the two seconds an adequate safety buffer?  

Two seconds may be enough at speeds less than 30 mph. However, remember perception/reaction time is not factored into any of the stopping times for the equivalent braking distances. 

The following table shows varying stopping times (equivalent to braking distance) from 10 mph to 60 mph:

Stoping Times 

MPH	Seconds
10.000	0.608
15.000	0.911
20.000	1.215
25.000	1.519
30.000	1.823
35.000	2.127
40.000	2.430
45.000	2.734
50.000	3.038
55.000	3.342
60.000	3.646

 

For reference purposes, the equivalent braking distances are:

MPH	Braking Distance
10.000	4.444
15.000	10.000
20.000	17.778
25.000	27.778
30.000	40.000
35.000	54.444
40.000	71.111
45.000	90.000
50.000	111.111
55.000	134.444
60.000	160.000

 

We have seen literature that stipulates “the two-second rule” is always a safe following distance! Here is a quote from Wikipedia:

“The two-second rule is a rule of thumb by which a driver may maintain a safe following distance at any speed. The rule is that a driver should ideally stay at least two seconds behind any vehicle that is directly in front of the driver’s vehicle. It is intended for automobiles, although its general principle applies to other types of vehicles.”

For obvious reasons the “safe following distance at any speed“ cannot be true. While reaction time may remain constant, at speeds greater than 30 mph you need more distance = time.

Side-note: A key element in advanced riding strategies is to improve your ability in anticipating hazards to allow you more time to react. This will certainly involve giving yourself additional time to match your speed or less speed to match the available time.

The PennDot Motorcycle Operator Manual (Pub 147) on page 12, states, “In traffic, motorcycles need as much distance to stop as cars. Normally, a minimum of four seconds distance should be maintained behind the vehicle ahead. A four-second following distance leaves a minimum amount of space to stop or swerve if the driver aead stops suddenly. It also permits a better view of potholes and other hazards in the road. A larger cushion of space is needed if your motorcycle will take longer than normal to stop. If the pavement is slippery, if you cannot see through the vehicle ahead, or if traffic is heavy and someone may squeeze in front of you, open up a three second for more following distance.”

The Observational Advantage

The more time you allow for following the better your view of the road ahead and any other traffic conditions (withing the limits of road configuration) you may need to respond to. 

Larger vehicles will limit your view ahead (18 wheelers, box trucks, buses, etc.) and will require more following time, even at the lower speeds.

Roadcraft: “No Johnny Come Lately”

In 1930 there were 2.2 million registered cars on the road  in Britain and they recorded 7,305 fatalities. It was in this era the first Road Traffic Act was drafted.

Police drivers at that time were no different than the general public, with no special training. The results were 1 crash for every 8,000 miles driven for the Metropolitan Police district.

Lord Cottenham’s teaching at the Metropolitan Driving School at Hendon in 1937 laid out the system, that by implementing a drill or sequence of events, a driver would ensure his/her vehicle was always in the correct place, at the correct speed and in the correct gear.

The Metropolitan Police crash rate went to 1 crash for every 27,000 miles (possibly 38,000 according to another source). Lord Cottenham’s system remains the basis for Roadcraft today.

The first version of Roadcraft was offered to the general public and was published in 1955.

The method and majority of Roadcraft raining is conducted on public roads. Here in the U.S. we might call that ‘reality based’ training.

What is advanced driving?

Maximizing safety for oneself and everyone else on any type of public road. This is the primary goal of true advanced driving.

It can be defined as the ability to control the position and speed of a vehicle safely, systematically and smoothly, at all times. It works with existing road and traffic conditions to allow reasonable progress to be made unobtrusively, with skill and responsibility.   

Roadcraft has been around for 74 years, established by a leader in safe road driving. It is not new, however, for the U.S., if adopted as a standardized method of training, it would be revolutionary.

Maybe the police in the U.S. need to take the lead as the U.K. did in the 1930’s. During the last 10 years, more cops have been killed by cars than by guns. The rate that officers are dying on the roads is alarming. Civilian casualties resulting from police actions are equally distressing. 

Standardization in training is the key and Roadcraft is the way, with a proven track record. It is after all, “no Johnny come lately.”

Why Roadcraft?

Parking Lot vs. Street
 
Formal motorcycle police training was excellent but consisted mostly of cone courses that were designed to ensure mastery of slow speed maneuvers, executed at near flawless levels.
 
For me, the most valuable parts of the training were the high speed cone weave (counter-steering  drills) and the braking evading drills because I could apply those techniques to my street riding to help me avoid collisions. There is no question these are valuable life saving skills.
 
The downside, it was all parking lot. I noticed a false sense of security about my riding. I can turn a police HD Road King around between 16 and 18 feet circle, but that did not help me deal with circumstances which would challenge my survivability on the streets with people who are going to violate my right-of-way or otherwise compromise my safety.

Police motorcycle training provided rudimentary handling skills, but it did not teach how to adopt to constantly changing road and traffic conditions.
 
There is a gap between execution of the physical skills to riding (steering, banking and braking) and strategy to make the best use of position and speed.
 
My Proposition
 
Crashes can be reduced in both frequency and severity by equipping riders with a strategy to identify and negotiate potential hazards, with techniques that leave nothing to chance and ensures an essential aspect of safe riding – time to react. 
 
While we do not intend to minimize or discount parking lot training, which is valuable in honing necessary skills, we fear there is quite a difference between cone drills and surviving the ‘mean streets’.
 
A feature of almost all crashes is human error. While it is necessary to learn how to steer, brake and control the motorcycle, it is even more important to learn how to approach and negotiate hazards.
 
Roadcraft System of Motorcycle Control
 
Roadcraft helps fill the gap between the parking lot and the streets. While the best training would be individualized instruction under a riding instructor, this type of training is not readily available. This should not hinder us from learning the system and applying it every time we ride. 
 
Recognizing relevant hazards and prioritizing them will keep you from becoming another statistic.
 
It is important to note this is not just for newbie riders. Folks who have been riding for years are probably more at risk because of complacency. The longer you ride without incident the more you lull yourself into thinking it won’t happen to you.
 
The Roadcrafter
 
What is a roadcrafter?
 
Specifically, a rider that employs the IPSGA (Information, position, speed, gear, acceleration) system of motorcycle control every ride. 
 
The roadcrafter has several qualities:

• they account for real ability as opposed to perceived ability
• they understand the capabilities of their machines
• they compensate for weather and road conditions
• they are skilled in detecting hazards and makes the necessary adjustments

Decide today to ride with control not chance.

Overtaking on Highways

When overtaking on highways (limited access) there are additional concerns to be aware of. Be alert for: 

• slower vehicle moving out in front of you
• faster vehicle coming up behind you

The higher speeds of limited access highways make it necessary to take information carefully before making any maneuver.

Scan regularly so that you are continually aware of the pattern of surrounding traffic. You should know which vehicles are closing up on other vehicles in front and which vehicles are moving up behind.

Constantly monitor opportunities to overtake and match your speed of approach to coincide with an opportunity. Make allowances for the additional hazards presented by lane closures and junctions.

Look for early warning of the intention of other road users to overtake. Indications of another driver’s intention to move out are:

• relative speeds
• head movements
• body movements
• vehicle movements from the center of the lane

 You are likely to see all these before the driver signals (many drivers, if they signal at all, only signal as they start to change lanes).

Beware of hidden vehicles between tractor-trailers. There is always a possibility a vehicle is hidden and is about to pull out into the left passing lane.

Don’t attempt to pass unless you are sure you can see all the vehicles in the center and right lanes well into the gaps between them.

Giving Information

Consdier alerting other drivers to your presence, especially if you are traveling at speed. If you decide a headlight signal would be helpful, give it sufficient time for the other driver to react.

The purpose of a head light warning is to inform other drivers of your presence (also interpreted as your indication to overtake).  Be careful your headlight flash is not interpreted as an invitation to other drivers to move out in front of you.

Overtaking Situations to Avoid

You should generally avoid overtaking wehn to do so would create a line of three vehicles traveling abreast because is leaves you no room for a maneuver if a hazard arises.

Overtaking When Following

Quick video demo, keep in mind this was shot where they drive on the wrong side of the road but the principles are all there:

 

 Stage 1 – The following position

Your task in the following position is to observe and assess the road and traffic conditions for a suitable opportunity to overtake safely.

Ask yourself:

• Is the driver aware of your presence?
• Does the road layout present a hazard?
• Are drivers behind you likely to overtake you?
• Is there adequate distance to overtake and return within a safe gap?

Your safety will depend on accurate interpretation of what you see. If there is any gray area, do not pass!

Stage 2 – The overtaking position

The overtaking position minimizes the distance you have to travel to pass so it will be closer than the following position. 

Closer also means less time to react to the actions of the vehicle in front, so be sure there are no  hazards ahead which might cause the vehicle in front to brake suddenly.

Work through the 5 phases to move up to the overtaking position.

Information

Scan for hazards and look for an opportunity to safely occupy the overtaking position. Consider rear observation for your blind spots.

Position

Move up to the overtaking position. This is the closest point to the vehicle in front that gives sufficient view of the road ahead.

Look to the left of the vehicle and right (closest to the road edge) and through the windows. 

Do not sit in the blind spot of any vehicles you intend to overtake.

Be aware that the closer you get to the vehicle in front the more likely you are to intimidate the driver.

The larger the vehicle in front the further back you need to be.

Speed

Adjust your speed to that of the vehicle in front.

Gear

Select the most responsive gear for the speed, bearing in mind that this is the gear you will use to accelerate as you overtake.

As the overtaking position is closer than the following position you must observe carefully for any new hazards. If a hazard comes into sight, consider dropping back to the following position until the hazard is passed.

Stage 3 – Overtaking

From the overtaking position continue observing until you identify an opportunity to overtake, then re-run the system of motorcycle control to guide you while overtaking.

Information

Identify:

• a safe stretch of road along which you have adequate vision
• a gap into which you can safely return
• the speed of any approaching vehicles
• the relative speed of your own bike and the vehicle(s) you intend to overtake
• what is happening behind – consider the need for rear observation
• any road or landscape features that could conceal a rapidly approaching vehicle

Position

Having made a thorough information check ahead and decided it is safe to go, consider the need for rear observation, give any necessary signals and move out to the opposing lane. Generally, do this without accelerating.

From this new position make a thorough information check of the road ahead and behind for any unidentified hazards. Decide whether to continue overtaking.

Speed

Overtake if the situation is clear, adjusting your speed if necessary. While you are in the opposing lane you are in a zone of potential danger so move through it as briskly as possible.

Gear

Before overtaking you should have selected a suitable gear. Sometimes circumstances may require another gear change but you should generally avoid this during the overtaking maneuver.

Acceleration

Adjust your speed to complete the overtaking maneuver safely and to enter the gap you have identified. Where possible, use acceleration sense to adjust your speed, but use the brakes if necessary.

How to Overtake

The Decision

On your approach to another vehicle you have to decide either to adjust your speed and follow or overtake at the first opportunity.

Whatever you decide, acceleration sense will assist in the ease and smoothness of the maneuver.

There should be no grey area in your decision to overtake. If you decide to pass, you should me 100 per cent on mark or don’t pass at all!

Overtaking

Assess whether you can approach and overtake in one continuous maneuver or whether you will have to follow for a while and wait for a good opportunity.

Either way, consider the vehicle in front to be an impending hazard in your assessment of risk. As such, consider the phases of motorcycle control (IPSGA) to deal with is safely.

 One Continuous Motion

After identifying only one hazard (the vehicle ahead) and all other conditions are suitable (clear view, adequate space, absence of oncoming traffic, etc.), work through the phases to pass the slower vehicle in one smooth maneuver.

Information Phase

• Observe the road ahead for signs, markings, layout, approaching vehicles, other hazards and any possible obstructed views which could conceal additional hazards. Identify a safe return gap
• Identify a safe return gap
• Observe the position and speed of any vehicles behind you, make sure you know what is in your blind spot
• Judge the relative speeds of your machine and the vehicle to be passed
• Consider a lifesaver (looking over your shoulder) and a signal

Acceleration Phase

• Adjust your speed to return to the identified gap and continue with your journey

Gear Phase

• Select the most responsive gear for the speed

Speed Phase

• Adjust your speed to complete the maneuver within the road space you know to be clear and before any approaching vehicle can cause conflict

Position Phase

• At the appropriate point, take a course to overtake (this should be 4 to 5 car lengths behind the vehicle to be overtaken)

Passing From a Following Position

When the presence of approaching vehicles, obstructed views or some other hazard requires you to follow the vehicle ahead before you can overtake, a three stage approach is necessary:

1. Following position
2. Overtaking position
3. Overtaking

In our next post, we will cover the three stages.

How Not to Overtake

Helmet Airbag?

Interesting concept, worth a view!

Washington Skills Test

The following videos are from the Washington Department of Licensing and our hats off for a job well done! They cover the basics that every rider should build upon:

You can subscribe to their videos at: http://youtube.com/walicensing

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

How to Ride Out a Rear Wheel Skid

Of all the crashes we investigate, over-braking the rear tire is one of the lead causes to loss of control.

Additionally, using only your rear brake will extend your stopping distance significantly.

The following advice is given in the event you should find yourself in a rear wheel lock-up and to demonstrate that you can ride through it. Please remember, the best avoidance is not to allow yourself to get into an emergency braking sequence by employing a riding strategy that will allow you to be in the correct position, speed and gear to handle the impending hazard.

How to Ride out a Rear Wheel Skid

With the motorcycle upright (do not attempt this if you are leaning/banking):

1. Keep your head and eyes straight looking at the horizon. DO NOT look to the sides or at the impending hazard. DO NOT look down (doing this will cause you to go where you look). It may also cause your rear to swing and induce a low side.
2. Keep your handlebars straight with you arms locked straight.
3. If you lock the rear (which we did intentionally in the video to demonstrate how to ride it out) keep pressure on the rear brake and ride it out. DO NOT release the rear brake, this may induce a high-side.

Distances

At 40 mph, my partner, Steve Nordmark, demonstrated a full rear wheel lock-up and rode it out. The distance to stop was 138 feet 10 inches.

Later in the video he performed threshold braking with both the front and rear brakes and was able to come to a stop in 80 feet 5 inches (not bad Stevie, but there is room for improvement, the winter must have made you a little rusty…lol).

In the video you will see:

• 20 mph rear wheel locked, no front braking
• 30 mph rear wheel locked, no front braking
• 40 mph rear wheel locked, no front braking
• 3 runs with both front and rear braking, close to threshold braking

Being Right Often Little Consolation

A collision occurred yesterday in which an SUV failed to yield the right of way at an intersection. The operator of the SUV started entering the intersection when the motorcyclist was approaching and stopped short. 

The rider went down before the point of impact with the SUV. He locked up the front tire and slid on the crash bars. The rider contacted the road with his head, hand and left arm primarily. He was wearing a helmet and avoided more serious injury. 

A good set of leather gloves will protect you from this:

BTW, the SUV driver said he never had any contact with the bike; he stopped and the rider just lost control.

He also said the bike was going too fast. He later changed his mind and said the bike was behind a vehicle turning right and he didn’t see him right away. All those statments can’t be true now, can they?

Never made contact with the bike? Stopped before entering the riders’ lane? What does the evidence say?

Here’s what the scene looked like:

The driver of the SUV is at fault;  but the rider sustained injuries, is banged up and the bike had to be towed.

If the rider could have kept the bike upright, he might have evaded the collision. Contact with the SUV was superficial and occurred while the bike was on its side.

The contact also proves the SUV was in the rider’s lane and canted to turn left.

The speed estimate for the motorcycle is about 43 mph, the posted maximum limit is 40 mph. There was approximately 104 feet of scrape marks and about 20 feet of skid mark attributable to the front tire.

The rider said he saw the car stop then pull forward.

We teach to treat intersections as an impending hazard. A couple of things that might have helped the rider:

1. Reduce speed
2. Select a farside position (near the centerline)
3. Cover your brakes
4. Subtle weave to create conspicuity
5. Wait for confirmation
6. Controlled braking

I have often almost come to a complete stop before crossing an intersection, having the right-of-way, when I could not confirm the vehicle saw me or is paying attention.

I try to make eye contact but I usually end up watch the front tires for which direction they are canted and any movement. If I see movement, then I react and compensate.

Safe Cornering Principles

Developing you skill at cornering and balance

“Cornering means riding a motorcycle round a corner, curve or bend. It is one of the main riding activities and it is important to get it right. Many single vehicle crashing involving improper cornering.

When you corner, your bike loses stability and places extra demands on available tire grip. The faster you go and the tighter the curve, thre greater the demand.

Principles for safe cornering

Correctly assessing the severity of the curve is essential. Key principles are:

1. Right position on approach
2. Right speed
3. Right gear for the speed
4. Ability to stop on your side of the road in the distance you can see to be clear

IPSGA cornering

Information phase:

On approach to a curve you should be scanning for traffic in front and behind, severity of bend, road surface and conditions, limit point

Position phase considertions: 

• Safety – position yourself so that you are less likely to come into conflict with others
• Stability – select a course which will provide best tire grip
• Information needs – road position determines how much you can see when you enter a bend, select the position which gives you the greatest view, reducing the tightness of the bend – by moving your bike from one side of your road space to the other, you can follow a shallower curve and improve stability.

Speed phase

Use the limit point to judge the safe speed to ride round the bend.

• Where the curve around the bend is constant, the limit point moves away from you at a constant speed
• If the bend tightens, the limit point appears to move closer, you should reduce your speed accordingly

Gear phase

Before entering the bend, select the appropriate gear for that speed. Select the gear that gives you greatest flexibility.

Acceleration phase

Open the throttle sufficiently to maintain a constant speed round the bend. This will stabilize the bike.

Providing no additional hazards, start to accelerate when the limit point begins to move away and you begin to bring the bike upright.

As you continue to straighten your bike, increase your acceleration to ‘catch’ the limit point. Accelerate until you reach the speed limit or other considerations restricting your speed.

Cornering forces

A motorcycle is at its most stable when traveling in a straight line on a level course at a constant speed.  It will continue to travel on a straight course unless some other force is applied to alter its direction.

When you steer, the turning force to alter direction comes from the action of the front tire on the road.

Wen you corner you need to balance the bike by leaning to the inside of the curve. If you did not do this the bike would fall to the outside of the curve. Leaning makes use of gravity to maintain stability.

You will recall from earlier lesson that tire grip faces competing demands from three actions:

• cornering
• accelerating
• braking

The more you brake or accelerate, the less tire grip you have for cornering. The faster you go into a corner or bend, the greater the tire grip required to keep you on course round it.

The practical outcome of these forces is to cause a bike to continue in a straight line and possibly fall over whenever tire grip is lost. So in a left-hand curve, as tire grip is lost, your bike drifts to the right of your intended course and in a right-hand curve it drifts to the left. The design of the bike will either reduce or accentuate these tendencies.

Cornering Hot

Hazard identification is the name of the game to street riding survival.

Sadly, many riders push beyond their limits and the machine limits on the public roadways. They become obsessed with performance and take unacceptable risks. 

This type of riding is really a form of ‘Russian Roulette’, sooner or later your luck is going to run out and it does run out for many.

Anytime you cannot stop within the assured clear distance ahead, on your side of the road, you are NOT in control.

This type of riding is a game of chance (gambling); all the skill in the world won’t mean diddly-squat if you fail to properly identify hazards and assess risk.

The pictures below show the aftermath of a rider trying to negotiate a curve at speed, losing control and going across the centerline on the bikes’ right side.

Unfortunately, he ran into and under a small box truck approaching from the opposite lane.

The pictures are offered for quiet reflection and in the hope of reaching one rider with the message of better motorcycling.

Will you ride with control or chance?